…in the US Christmas is celebrated on the 25th of December. For this day i drove back to Honolulu to met Alex and Anna at their house. Then plan was to start the day at the pool and i arrived there short after noon. It was a pleasure to drove the curvy hairpin Pacific Heights Road up, because i got another local who drove this road often. I think he felt weird because he was driving this road with an tuned BMW 3er and i always closed up with a tiny Chevrolet Spark 😉 and passed an insane jogger who ran this way up. Arrived at their small flat in the basement of an house i was welcomed by Anna by an ice cold Corona and enjoyed the view from their pool to the valley and Honolulu, as this jogger came the stairs down, it was Alex. He still hasn’t enough and did some small exercises to calm down.
It’s X-mas and so it’s present time! Anna gave me my presents which my sister Mephy brought after her BM2014 visit to here. I was really happy about this, because i didn’t thought that i will got any phyiscal presents this years. Armlet, small bottle (which you can hook on the burner belt) of vodka, a much smaller bottle (one shot) of Tequilla Petron / Caffee (yumy) and a lovely letters to christmas from my parents and sister. The coolest part was, that these letter was dated from August. Have you ever got an christmas letter, dated from August? Nice 🙂
To complete an unusual christmas day, Anna and Alex put three surf board on the top of their car and we drove surfing. I was surprised that we didn’t stopped at an beach, instead we stopped at the end of an highway an parked somewhere in the middle of houses. Where is the sea, i wondered. We packed all our staff an followed an small narrow maintenance trail between the properties to the sea. Okay, no beach, we was standing at an rocky end of an duct where the water form the streets was flowing into the sea. In far distance, about 1/3 mile, we saw the surfs and even better we saw nobody else with boards there. Perfect!
I was totally exhausted as we reached the points where we could enter the surfs, enter by paddling. Alex already said, come on Luke, now this wave, but i was still to exhausted. This waves was about 2m high and definitely higher then the ones i tried on my own on Maui. As an good teacher, he pushed me in the upcoming wave…
…wow, the water sprayed in my face, the board speeded up, got really stable, and i felt a bit of the feeling that the good surfers must get when they ride the surf. It was like when i go downhill skiing and you find your own track and speed to get an black slope down. Totally overwhelmed by that feeling it forgot to try to stand up and ended the whole way lying like on a body board. Okay, repeat! It seems like surfing is like skiing or snowboarding, you need speed, so steeper slopes and you will get more stable by physic itself. Ähm..ja, have to go back, by paddling, paddling, paddling, paddling. Doh, my muscles in the arms where not prepared for so much paddling. Luckily, Alex passed by and supported my funny tries to get back to start and throw me his leash, so got back a bit easier and faster. Finally i got on three surfs, but only with the help from Alex who pushed me in at the right time. The best one was the last, because i already stand up, totally wiggly, but i stand 🙂
Anna and Alex was invited to a christmas dinner and i had also had to get an something for eat. All that paddling and salt water swallowing made my hungry. I thanked them a lot for this awesome day and Alex for the Taxing service and headed on to find restaurant which is not closed on the 25th. Finally i ended up in the Cheesburger and gifted myself an big burger and a Longboard Lager. Back in the Hostel i ended the day on the North Shore beach with an cold Gordon Biersch and a girl (forgot the name already) who just arrived in the house of the hostel where i stayed. She want’s to see the beach and the waves and i guided here down. Another positive points for O’ahu, the other side of the island and mountains, it’s really dark there, less light pollution and was nice to see the starts bright again. …(2014/12/25)